the rest of the Hawaii pics can be found here
Here are some more musings about the Hawaii trip - seems that a few things have gotten in the way of finishing this account.
I said in the last post that the Big Island has 11 of 13 ecological zones on the planet. I am still amazed that in the span of 20 miles heading north from the hotel on the Kona side we drove out of a parched landscape reminiscent of northern Arizona and into a lush, green and drippy landscape that more represents what most of us envision when we think of tropical islands. What a pleasure to see wild orchids and ferns as big as an automobile – blooming plants were very prolific AND odiferous. Standing on the steep cliffs on the northern part of the island you can look out onto an ocean so vast that it really does feel like you are standing at the edge of the earth. There was both a power and a vulnerability that I experienced from that vantage point and I became lost in the vertiginous space between solid and surreal. I was awed!

The expanse of the cattle and sheep ranches in the mountainous interior was a complete surprise. The main highway rose to 3000 feet and the verdant hills were spectacular with the distant ocean as a backdrop; again the overwhelming feeling of being at the end of the earth.

Ahead on this road loomed Mauna Kea, an extinct volcano rising over 13,000 feet and was the dominant view looking south. We had originally planned a trip to the summit and a visit to the observatories there but we had agreed on doing just one big adventure during our visit and Mauna Kea lost to a trip to the active volcano on the south of the island. Mauna Kea will be on the agenda next visit. The observatories are so large that they are easily viewed from the lowlands and it’s said that it is so clear at that altitude that you feel as though you can reach out and touch the stars. Next time for sure and all the camera gear I can carry.
Did you know they had a Costco on the island??? Seems incongruous, but it’s there and was a welcome shop for supplies.
Driving south to Kona was an eye opener since we had only driven that route in the black dark upon arrival. We drove for miles through lava fields and it was like being on the moon for all its bizarreness. In The Chronicles of Thomas Covenant the Unbeliever, by Stephen R. Donaldson he describes “the Blasted Lands” and that is what I thought of when I saw this explosion of rock and tried to imagine what it would have looked like when it was flowing. In the midst of all this dark upheaval I noticed there were some small white stones that had been arranged into words along the side of the road. It soon became more prolific and it was like a form of graffiti – so we stopped to examine it a little closer. One of the products of a lava flow like this is pumice stone and that what the white rocks were. They had been gathered and arranged by a variety of folk in stark contrast to the dark brown lava and it was everything from overt bathroom wall writing to actual ads for businesses. The shoulders of the road were resplendent in love proclamations and simple graphic designs. Since the island doesn’t allow billboards I suppose this was the next best thing.

The pièce de résistance for the trip was the active volcano. We chose to take a helicopter tour of the activity since there were no surface flows happening within hiking distance. This turned out to be the best decision and we were able to view the crater in action and some surface lava flows. Our pilot was smooth in his operation of the craft and highly entertaining and suddenly we found ourselves hurtling toward Mt. Doom. He banked the chopper and there we were looking straight down the throat of the volcano.
After circling several times and banking both left and right so both sides got the view we flew off toward the ocean over the hardened crust. There had been a 5.4 quake on the island the week before and it opened a couple of places in the crust that we could see the molten red magma. The one pictured here reminded me of the Eye of Sauron.
The lava flow was underneath the crust and was spilling out into the sea on the very south end of the island. The resulting steam explosions were massive and we got a very close view of land that was only minutes old. What an extreme from the land on the north end that was millions of years old to new born on the south.

We passed over what remained of a community taken out in the 80s by the volcanic flow. It wiped out an entire town and what remained were a few homes and only one remains occupied – it is a B & B. The only way in or out is by helicopter and you can base from there to explore the lava fields. It is hard to imagine the destructive force of molten rock flowing like a river at 30-60 MPH.
So after our trip through the Land of Mordor we set off to exchange the rental car that was steadfastly refusing to latch the trunk lid. We had hours before we needed to be at the airport in Kona and it was a 3 hour drive from Hilo so we set off for the black sand beaches on the south coast. Ignoring a turn off we drove right to the end of the road – literally. The road stopped where the lava had flowed over the top of it. It was quite awesome walking out over this cracked and once molten landscape. It was like being in a place that the goddess said we couldn’t be, treading on the forbidden ground.

After thoroughly assaulting our senses and sensibilities on this bizarre landscape we backtracked and found the black sand nude beach that had been our goal.
After not enough time there we had to start for the journey to the other side with a brief tour of the Volcano National Park on the way.
A memorable trip and there was every enticement to return to the islands soon. I could easily fall right into island time and island ways. Who knows?